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Building a Hover

It’s approaching mid-March, and temperatures on our mountain farm are in the teens and twenties most nights. We expect (and hope!) to have our first hatchlings coming out of their nice, warm shells this Tuesday, and they will go up to the barn after drying off in the house brooder for 24 hours. Brrrrrr!

Brooding in Freezing Weather Outside? Yes, you can!

Plamondon’s schematic

I wouldn’t have even considered doing this if it weren’t for information I learned from this great book: Success With Baby Chicks by Robert Plamondon. The book is chock full of really useful information, much of it gleaned by Plamondon from research done by reading “a hundred books on poultrykeeping at Oregon State University’s Valley Library, and surveyed a hundred years of poultry journals and magazines.”* In this book, Plamondon shares how to build a style of chick brooders that were used widely during the 1940s and onward, but have been largely lost today. He calls them “hovers.”

Plamondon taught me that I could build a hover big enough to warm 200 chickens for under $20 in under two hours. Well, I’m raising far fewer chicks than that… but that’s okay. Plamondon scales his design so that you can build one that warms 50, 100, or 200 chicks. I built one even smaller today: intended for my average hatch of 30 chicks.

As Plamondon explains on his excellent website, that introduces the hover:

The basic facts can be summarized as follows:

  • Baby chicks need heat, but are very small, so only the heat at floor level matters.
  • Radiant heat, such as from heat lamps, can keep a chick warm even if the air temperature is cold, but radiant heat alone is expensive.
  • Heat lamps and reflector floodlight bulbs are the most convenient source of heat. Both types make good brooder lamps.
  • Heat rises, so it tends to heat the ceiling rather than the floor. Trapping the heat with an insulated ceiling above the chicks (a “hover”) will save energy.
  • Using a combination of radiant heat and an insulated hover will provide the best of both worlds, using one-third the electricity while keeping the chicks safer and more comfortable.
  • Winter brooding is straightforward with this equipment.
  • A lightweight plywood brooder box with two heat lamps can be built in a couple of hours and will last for years.

Our Hover: It Took Less Than Two Hours to Build!

Here are pictures of the hover we built today. We have pens for day-old chicks that are a scant 24” deep, so we chose to make ours 19” x 24” (which is slightly smaller than Plamondon’s smallest design, 24” x 24”).

Pieces cut and ready

First, we cut out legs, cleats, side pieces, and the lid (without corners removed).

Finished “box” of the hover

Then, we assembled these into a box (with no lid) because we are not skilled carpenters and knew our box would not be perfect. We then turned the box over on top of the lid piece and scribed the finished dimensions on the lid. We then cut the lid to fit.

 

Put shavings here!

It sets inside the walls on, the cleats, 4” down from the top. This is so you can put 4” of shavings on the top of this hover box, giving great insulation to the hover, and further saving energy costs.

 

Wiring the hover

Then, my brilliant husband wired the hover.

The design calls for two lights (for redundancy in case one light bulb burns out) set in porcelain sockets and mounted in the center of the two 19” sides of the hover. Scott chose to wire them together on a single circuit.

One light mounted

There is no need for a thermometer, or even a light switch, though our porcelain mounts did come with pull chains.

Voila! Our finished hover! Tomorrow, we’ll be plugging it in and filling the pen with shavings. I’ll be monitoring the temperatures to assure that the babies will be warm and toasty, even in freezing weather!

Finished wired hover

My husband used a tuna can to cover the hole where the wires are threaded from the light sockets so that the birdies can’t get to them as they grow larger.

We have taken it up to the barn and installed it with only two 40 watt lightbulbs to start warming up the space. Later today, we’ll grab two higher powered bulbs from our local hardware store: we need a total of 120 watts in this size hover for below-freezing temperatures. See the picture below of the glowing goodness!

Installed hover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Purchase Success With Baby Chicks here! Find out more details about hovers here.

UPDATE: 10 days later, I can show you an even more excellent way to brood chicks. Read HERE why we never used the hover pictured… though, I’ve left this post up because there are different strokes for different folks, and this remains a viable option.

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Moving Our Chicken Village

Well, we have completed the GREAT COOP MOVE of 2018. It only took three days… ONLY~

We moved seven 500 lb. breeding coops UPhill on Saturday morning. Then we rested; exhausted.

Why Did We Move Them?

Coops in the Garden

We built the Family Coops in the summer/fall of 2017. We put them in what had been our garden plot, because we haven’t had a lot of success gardening, and I wanted to be able to keep an eye on my flocks. It was one of those “it seemed like a good idea at the time” things.

It actually was a great location for us, and worked really well. That is, until late January 2018, when we had snow, followed by a brief thaw, followed by torrents of rain. The rain washed all that chicken poo on top of the slick, frozen snow and right into our spring water. Luckily, we have two wells; we were able to switch to the less good, but not contaminated, well.

But we realized that we were going to have to relocate seven heavy coops (made heavier by the recent addition of wooden floors) UPhill.

Our Wonderful Church Family

We live in a rural area where folks still “do” for one another, and where mud is an accepted fact of life. Most people here are farmers. So, when we put out the call, we had three strong guys show up to help lug the coops up the hill. We could not have done it without them literally helping us to carry these burdens, and are so grateful!

How the Move Went Down

So, on Saturday morning at 9 AM, the men showed up and they moved seven 500 lb. breeding coops UPhill on Saturday morning. We decided to move the birds in their coops. The birds had already been shut in all of Friday because we had 70 mph winds here and had to keep them safe.

The men started by carrying the first two coops all the way up. Then, I got out there and saw how much they were struggling. I suggested that we use our truck for the rest of the move.

It proved a welcome suggestion! At that point, the men began carrying them each of the remaining five coops up from the garden (just about 100 feet) and then hoisting them onto the truck. Then we drove each one up the hill (pictured) in the truck, and they unloaded them at the top of the hill. We then drove back down, and moved the next one.

They were all moved by about 11 AM. Then the men had to pound in legs and level them in their new locations. That took until about 12:30 PM. At that point, most of our help had to leave.

Then we rested; exhausted but grateful that the heaviest part of the business was done.

But Wait—There Was More!

New Location

On Sunday afternoon, we decided that getting the runs built for our birds (so that they could get out of their coops after this, their 3rd day locked in) was critical enough to qualify as a “work of mercy and necessity. All we got done in the afternoon, however, was the ticklish job of relocating the pop door for our layer flock, and building a chicken tunnel out to their run, so that we could later erect the new runs around them.

On Monday, we had a slow start. We had first to clean up the area where the coops had been, taking down all the wire for seven separate runs (and their stakes, hooks, and gates). That took awhile. Then, we started to erect the new runs on sloping land, some of it with rocks jutting out. We felt pressured by the fact that the birds had been “cooped up” since Thursday night… so this was going on Day 4. But, as hard as we tried, we were able to build 4 of 7 runs, and let those birds out.

Cock Fight!

In the process of building the runs and moving the coops, we relocated some of the birds’ relative positions. As they were let out into new runs, our best Light Sussex cock and our best Silver Penciled Rock cock found themselves separated by only a wire fence, and they did not like it, not one little bit! As I worked on more runs on Monday evening, I watched these two cocks get into a massive fight through the wire that left them both bleeeding.

I broke up the fight, knowing that freezing temperatures were coming overnight, and not wanting them to get frostbite from their wounds.

When I came out on Tuesdaymorning, I found that our Light Sussex cock, Buddy, kept his left eye shut, and was hoping that he hadn’t lost it! I kept my eye on him as I finished building the last of the runs. He seemed okay, except for not opening that eye.

In the afternoon, we found time to apply warm compresses and antibiotic ointment to Buddy’s eye. We are grateful that he opened this injured eye (see picture) and it seems that it was the lid that was injured. You can see how battered he got in the fight: all the black areas are wounds!

Finishing Up

We finished all 7 runs, and new ramps, on Tuesday morning, just ahead of a new Northeaster coming through. We were so grateful to have this chore behind us, and now face cleaning up our well so we can use it again this summer.

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Family Coops in Winter

First layer of bedding getting thin

As the fall weather has become colder, we have been modifying our Family Coops to make sure that our birds stay warm in the winter.

Our first step was to open up the tarps that protect their interiors and quickly staple in some landscaping cloth to cover the wire floor. Over this we spread about 3” of pine shavings.

Later, we mulched and added fall leaves to this bedding. (You can read details about this nifty trick in this post.) About every month, we add bedding to the coops. Up until Christmas, they have remained clean and sweet smelling!

Skirt below and flap over feed/water station

The birds were doing fine at night while temperatures remained in the 20’s, but as they began to regularly dip into the teens and below, we added simple covers to the feeding stations at the back of the coop, and a skirt to some that are most often hit by strong winds. These covers prevent cold air from blowing into the coops.

The flaps over the feeding station, in particuar, also seem to keep their water from freezing quite so fast, and keep hungry wild birds — around here, jays and crows — out of the feed, as these became more of a pest as winter came on.

Christmas lights!

As the days got darker, we also added light to the coops in order to encourage young pullets to lay reliably. Since it was the season, and we had extras, we ended up using Christmas lights. A $10 set (purchased at our local Family Dollar store) was 14’ of lighted length, and proved to be the perfect size to festoon the clear panels on our coops. We linked them with outdoor extension cords, and have them all on one timer. They light up in the early AM and evening so that the birds have 15 hours of light per day.

Then we had our first snowfall: about 3”. The birds did fine, though they did tend to huddle either inside their coops or at the very end of the runs. 🤔 Most of the day, this scene has remained fairly static.

As the winter progressed, the only trouble we had was with the bedding. On those inevitable long weeks where birds spent much more time in their coops because of freezing or blowing or snowing weather, the bedding did cake up because the landscape cloth made it very hard to stir it properly (as you should always do with deep litter).

We ended up cutting three 4’ x 2’ pieces of 1/2” plywood and lining the bottom of the coops on a warm day in January. We pulled out the caked bedding and landscape cloth, put down compressed wood pellets (like they use in pellet stoves) and shavings on top of the new wood floor panels.

Feed/water station flap

Since then, adding shavings and stirring the bedding is much easier, and we’ll be able to remove the boards come late spring, store them, and reuse them winter after winter.

Our final improvement came in late March, and we plan to add this one to our published plans. We added door flaps in place of the hardware cloth ones. These are hinged to the bottoms of the nesting boxes, and hooked on the bottom so that they stay closed, as well as hooking to an eye-screw to stay open for feeding/watering.

The reason we decided to make this permanent amendment to the design is that there’s always a concern with rodents and with wild birds getting at the chicken feed (the latter spread avian diseases). Furthermore, for the coops where water stations face east, we fought algae in our bowls a lot. This modification helps fight algae and wild birds, while adding yet another layer of protection for the birds from cold or predators. And it only took about an hour to add one to each of our coops!

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Leaves to Bedding

I just love a great deal, and today I made one!

It’s mid-November, and our leaves (especially around the farmhouse) have really just come down. So, naturally, we have to rake them up, right? And it’s an all-day task, right? Well, not exactly!

Sucking up those pesky leaves

About three years ago, I bought an amazingly inexpensive tool that has been such a help each fall: it’s an electric, corded leaf blower with a twist: it blows, but it also sucks leaves into a bag, mulching them on the way. This blower was under $100; one of the best tools I’ve ever invested in!

Brief Digression: Deep Litter

At Storybook Farm, we practice the deep litter method for bedding. In case you’re never heard of this, here’s a brief summary of how it works. Basically, you make compost inside your coop by combining elements that will break each other down naturally. The elements you need are three: carbon (usually shavings or other bedding elements, like pine needles or dried fall leaves), chicken poop (nitrogen), and tiny microorganisms that live in soil, leaves, and all living organic materials (these break down the combined carbon and nitrogen).

First, you put down bedding and make sure that the microorganisms are present (I had to add dirt to my wooden coop floor the first year; now I add fall leaves and they do double duty.) Then, allow chickens to poo. The carbon absorbs wet fecal materials and interacts with solid poo such that the poo dries out and (if left alone) the carbon elements will harden and cake. This is why you must turn your bedding weekly.

Each week, you add a light layer of carbon (say, shavings or dry leaves): about an inch, tops. Then, you fork it over and thus renew your bedding—or you get the chooks to do so for you by throwing treats down first, and then new shavings on top. When you put down seed treats first, your chickens will scratch and dig looking for the treats and turn the bedding pretty well for you (as long as it hasn’t been that long since it was last turned allowing it to cake badly.

Every month or so, I make sure I go in and give it a deep and thorough turning. Light and fluffy, and over the months, increasingly deeper, is this bedding. It smells great and is easy peasy for the busy chicken farmer to maintain, which is especially welcome when cold sets in. (Bonus: bored chooks in winter really get into scratching for those treats!)

With employing the deep litter method, I deep clean my chicken coops twice a year: spring and fall. In both seasons, the all of the bedding comes out of the coop and goes onto the garden, enriching our soil. (Gotta love the circle of life!) So, each fall I need to renew my deep beds in the coops.

Let’s get back to today’s fun times.

First layer of bedding getting thin

For the first the last two years, we’ve sucked up/mulched fall leaves, and then transferred them into feed sacks for use as carbon bedding through the winter. This worked great. However, today I wanted to deepen the bedding in our new Family Coops.

There are seven of these small coops. This is our first year with them, and we just winterized them about two weeks ago. In the summer, these coops have an entirely open bottom (less work for me and great ventilation) but in the winter, open flooring is too cold! So, two weeks ago we spend a couple of hours opening up all the tarps and stapling down some landscape cloth, then putting down 2” of shavings on that. After 2 weeks, though, I could begin to see the landscaping cloth (see above picture), and knew I had to deepen the beds to get that great mulching process going. (Besides, there were no microorganisms in there yet.)

Leaves going into the nesting boxes

So, today was mid-40s and sunny, and the leaves were fresh fallen, but dry (very key that they be dry or they can mold quickly) so out came the handy sucker/mulcher machine, and away I went.

I put a bag of beautifully processed leaves in each coop. Unlike when we did the winterizing and had to get inside the coops to staple down the landscaping cloth, I didn’t have to remove the tarps.

I just opened the nesting boxes and shook the bag of mulch inside. (This was an advance over previous years where we’ve had to transfer the mulch to bags and then to the coop.)

Then, I used our “grabber” tool to push them further into the coops and spread them a bit. I left a generous supply in each nesting box as well, just to make things more cozy for my hens at night.

Coop with new bed of mulched leaves

When I got done, I felt like I had made such a deal! I had gotten the fallen leaves off the lawn, I had mulched them, and then (with very little effort) I doubled the coop bedding in each of seven coops and didn’t have to do the tiresome step of putting mulched leaves into bags for storage. Woot! I call that a win-win-win, and I’m smiling as I watch the happy chickens rooting around in the new fall leaves!

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Things to Consider When Buying Your First Chicks

When thinking about purchasing chicks for your flock, you have a range of options. This post is mostly intended to serve first-time chick buyers with information you can use as you make your buying decision.

Narrow Down Your Options

As you surf the Internet, you’re going to find a range of options — and prices — for day-old chicks. Here are some questions and topics that can help you winnow these options. If you are brand new to chickens, the best advice I can give you is to join an online group, like www.backyardchickens.com. On this forum you can ask many questions of experienced chicken keepers who are passionate about their birds, and even read reviews about different breeds.

  1. Your first decision, of course, is about the breed of chicken you want to buy. There are literally hundreds of breeds, because down through the ages, chickens (like dogs) have been selectively bred for different purposes. Some breeders were looking for the most eggs possible per hen. Others wanted the meatiest chickens possible. Some bred for white skins, and others for yellow, feeling that table birds looked better with one or the other. Some chickens were bred for certain colors of eggs. And, more recently, chickens have been bred smaller and smaller to produce miniature versions of larger fowl breeds. These are the bantams. So, consider why you are buying your chickens. What jobs are they to perform? Will they provide pure pleasure as you watch their endearing antics, or as they sit on your lap? Will they provide eggs, or meat (or both) for your table? Will you breed them? Do you want a mixed flock, or only one breed to start?
  2. Also consider your limits. Do local ordinances allow you to keep roosters? How many chickens are you allowed to keep? (You can keep more bantams than large fowls in the same amount of space.) How big a coop will you have? Chicken math, as we call it, offers the guideline that you should provide at least 2 square feet of floor space in your coop, with and additional 4 square feet of run space. Before you buy any chicks, have their housing totally ready to receive them, and do recognize that chicken keeping is addictive: think about providing more space than you think you’ll initially use.
  3. Are you interested in breeding chickens? A major positive movement among backyard poultry keepers has been the preservation — and, in some cases, the rescue — of heritage breeds that were once the mainstay of the American poultry industry but have been in danger of extinction, and thus being lost forever. Do consider joining others in preserving these beautiful birds!

About the Costs of Chicks

Chick prices (for any chosen breed) will vary widely, and the first-time buyer might wonder why this is so. Here are some factors that go into pricing baby chicks:

First, there is a great divide between chicks from large hatcheries and those from smaller, private breeders. Here are reasons why.

Large Hatcheries

Typical Hatchery Breeding

As with most sectors of agriculture and farming today, big hatcheries are big business. Their methods tend to lead to lower quality birds and (in some) inhumane conditions. Because they handle large numbers of chicks, and serve larger retail chains that sell the spring chicks you may have seen in stores, their breeding and sales practices are modified for the greatest possible profit at the lowest possible costs. I want to be careful here: I am not condemning all large hatcheries wholesale, but if you’re interested in details (some are disturbing) you can read these two articles:

Chicks from larger hatcheries are thus not necessarily the healthiest or best looking representative of a given breed of chickens. They may be compared to the puppy mills of the dog world, with which reputation and cautions you may already be familiar.

Private Breeders

Smaller, private breeders (such as ourselves) take the time and absorb the labor that selective breeding of parent stocks require. Often these breeders seek to improve the breeds they keep (some with an eye towards winning prizes at chicken shows—which is a world unto itself that you may never have dreamed existed)! As the Mother Earth article states above, most smaller breeders are looking to improve not only breed types, but their health, overall productivity (in whatever sphere that is, whether for meat or eggs or foraging or broodiness, or a combination of these), etc.

Juvenile French Black Copper Marans

In order to make selections for breeding, private breeders must hatch and raise hundreds of chicks. Why? Serious breeders typically keep for the next generation’s breeding only 1/10 of hens hatched and 1/100 of roosters hatched. Year by year, these breeders raise many, many chicks to maturity so that they can select only the finest, and pair them with mates that promote the qualities in the breed that they are looking to improve or sustain. In raising so many birds, breeder incur costs: feed, housing, and labor. Typically, too, the conditions under which birds are raised are more natural to the birds, and humane.

In Summary

So, the pure economics of your choice are these: you will typically get more vigorous, healthier, more beautiful, and more productive stock from private breeders than you will from larger hatcheries, but it will cost you more initially.

One more consideration: as is true when we “buy American”, buying from private breeders supports the work (and practices) of private breeders, ensuring the ongoing efforts to raise rare breeds and/or healthier, more productive stock.

Finding Private Breeders

Once you have narrowed down your choice of breeds, and decided to go the route of private breeders, there are several ways to find private breeders.

  • Best, probably, is to find the national organization for that breed (all heritage breeds have these). Such organizations will typically have a breeder’s directory or a Facebook group (or both) where you can connect with top breeders and purchase stock.
  • Another approach is to simply Google your breed of choice + “for sale” and see which websites come up.

Note that the best breeders know their bloodlines! Typically, in their descriptions of the chicks they offer, they will name those lines. This is a sure indication that you are getting top birds within the given breed.

A Word About Shipping Costs

Common Shipping Crate

In purchasing chicks from private breeders, don’t be thrown by shipping costs. The only game in town for all of us is the USPS, and their rates are high.

Most breeders simply charge what it actually costs them: often a flat rate of $50/shipment to ensure a speedy delivery and healthy chicks on arrival. You may be able to find a breeder near enough to you to pick up your stock personally, so again, use the above resources to search out all your options, but remember: in buying chicks, you do get what you pay for.

Remember…

You are making an investment in livestock: you’ll be housing, feeding, eating the eggs from, and be concerned about the health of the chicks you purchase for years to come once they’re in your care.

For all that they give us, we think it’s well worth it to purchase the best stock we can find. Most private breeders are committed to offering you that stock. Here at Storybook Farm, we are one such private breeder working to provide such quality chickens for you.

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First Steps to Take With Your Child

This is post #2 of 2 in a series on keeping chickens with children.

Post #1 focused on the research you should do, and decisions that you as the adult should come to, before you introduce the idea of a chicken-keeping project to your child. If you take the time to narrow down options, and identify your goals for this adventure, you have more options and a greater chance of success.

1. From the list you’ve narrowed down, help your child to choose his breed(s).

He might want to specialize in one breed if he’s thinking of breeding and showing in the future, but most kids will want an assortment of breeds when starting out. This gives a rainbow egg basket, and variety in the hens’ appearances. There’s always time to specialize later if you become interested in breeding more seriously.

2. From your earlier research, with your child, choose your breeder.

There are large hatcheries that provide (how to put this?) basic chicks inexpensively. (Read a good article on this here.) These chicks would not be exhibition quality and, more importantly, as the article states, large hatchery chicks tend to be weaker, watered down versions of the terrific birds of yesteryear. Large hatcheries usually allow random breeding (many roosters among many hens in large poultry houses), whereas those who breed heritage birds for exhibition or simply to improve their breeds use selective mating. The difference here is similar to buying a puppy from a pet store vs. a breeder. Generally, the rule is you get what you pay for with chicks. I wrote a whole blog post on this, if you want even more food for thought.

In case you’re wondering: I put this step here because involving your child in this decision gives him experience in cost/benefit choices that we all make in the adult world. However, you may want to narrow down his choices ahead of involving him, so as to not get his hopes pinned on one gorgeous picture that a hatchery happens to post. After you make this choice together, you’ll need to read details about how to order chicks from your breeder (all are different) and when to expect them after you do. But — before you order — read on!

3. Purchase (or build with your child) a coop for your chicks well ahead of their arrival.

Some people start chicks in a simple brooder — it can be a box or baby’s wading pool with a light for heat, food, water, and shavings that starts in your house, but quite quickly you want to move the chicks to their permanent coop.

Note well, please: chicks produce dust after about a week or two that can be dangerous to humans, especially if it gets into food. Always keep chicks in the house for as short a time as possible, and don’t brood them in your kitchen ever.

There are as many plans for making coops as there are people keeping chickens. In this post, I talk about the best coop I’ve ever worked with, and sell plans for it here. In this post, I talk about general features to look for in any coop plans. Check them out, discuss their features with your child, and be sure to get that coop (and all needed equipment, like food, water, and feeders/waterers, as well as grit, perches, etc.) in place before ordering any chicks or hatching eggs! (If you plan to hatch eggs, you’ll need an incubator as well!)

4. Now you can order your peeps (or hatching eggs)!

Again, I’m not a fan of starting with hatching eggs as a beginner, but if that’s your choice, then order hatching eggs at this point. Otherwise, order your peeps and start talking with your child about feeding and watering practices.

As stated above, you and your child can both access online communities where you can learn about rearing chicks. We, at Storybook Farm, sell four different breeds of large fowl, heritage chickens. All of them are excellent choices as dual purpose, gentle, friendly birds. (They are grandchild tested, so we know for sure! 🤗 ) If you are interested in learning about our French Copper Marans, our Silver Penciled Plymouth Rocks, our Light Sussex, or our Blue Wheaten Ameraucanas, click here.

This article should get you started. Do you have any questions? Feel free to post comments and I’ll do my best to answer. Good luck!

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Bears? Oh, my!

We have been happily building our cute little family coops all summer. How I have loved to watch each one be completed and established around our former garden’s perimeter. I’ve been loving the look, the ease of tending, and the happiness of my birds.

Until last week, that is, when I had a vivid dream — a nightmare, actually.

I dreamed that a black bear came out of the nearby woods (where we know for certain that they do live) and exerted her awesome strength to claw open my tarped coops and ravage my chickens. In my dream, the coops lay scattered on the lawn, overturned and broken. Chicken feathers were everywhere. Some chickens escaped into nearby woods; others were bloody casualties scattered on the lawn. It was horrendous; I could not return to sleep for hours.

In the clear light of day the next morning, my husband and I discussed the dream, and its implications. We are serious about finding the best possible breeding stock and doing highly selective breeding. We are investing time, love, and dollars into this endeavor. Whether now — when investments are relatively modest — or in the future — when years of effort have produced very expensive, high quality birds — we do not want to lose out to a wandering black bear in search of a meal.

So, we read up on this topic. We learned that black bears do indeed attack chicken coops, and with devastating results. However, bears will respect electric fences (yay!). One sets hot lines at about 24″ above ground (as well as higher or lower). The best scheme involves multiple strands, since bear paws are well insulated. We also read that it’s a good idea to slather the line with honey, so that a wandering bear will lick the line. Apparently, once a bear has registered the shock, they typically won’t try again.

Before: coops outside garden; runs inside

Our problem then became how to electrify our perimeter. We had placed the family coops outside the garden fence, with runs extending inward. There was no good way to place electric fence around these coops and still maintain 1) the ability to mow easily, 2) create a pleasing look, or 3) create an easily-operated gate.

With a groan, we came to the conclusion that we needed to rotate our scheme 180 degrees. Our plan is to have 12 family coops in all, housing 4 breeds, divided into three families each. We had built and mounted five of these so far. We would now move all five of these family coops to the interior of the garden, mounting them back-to-back down the center, and have the runs extend outward, towards the perimeter. Then, we would electrify that perimeter.

We were grateful that the coops had been designed to be mobile, but they are still heavy. When we finish each one, it takes a minimum of two strong people to move it (using a heavy-duty wagon) to the garden area from the garage workshop. In this case, it meant disassembling the coop’s supportive legs (which had been well pounded into the ground), removing the wire that allows chickens to go under the coop), moving each coop up, around, and down over stepped garden terraces, re-pounding in supportive legs, re-leveling the coops, and finally, reworking the runs (which involved repairing openings in the garden fence perimeter and making new openings near the coop doors) and finally, rewiring the underside of each coop. We also had to reverse the tarps, since we want south-facing sun to pour into those clear vinyl panels that we incorporated. Whew!

After: coops in center; runs go outward

I was no help in the heavy lifting part of the endeavor. I’m not strong, and had recently injured my back. But, in God’s special providence, my strong and willing son called a couple of days after my nightmare (and our decision to move the coops) to announce his decision to visit us with his family.

With his help, we moved the coops in two days, but it’s going to take at least a week to accomplish all of the above-listed tasks, and still longer to electrify the garden. In the picture at the right, you can see the coops moved, and the patches that were under three of the coops when they were outside of the garden fence. Chickens sure can eat green stuff down to nothing in a short amount of time. In hot weather, they love hanging out under these coops: shade and breezes! You can also see the progression of eaten-down vegetation in the runs (that have been created as each coop was erected). The lowest coop (far left in the picture) is the most recent. The only reason that there wasn’t a bare patch for the far right one is that we never cut a door for those birds to go under that coop.

As all five coops are moved now, a hidden blessing has emerged: they are even easier to tend! Before, when the plan was to line opposite sides of the 1800 sq. ft. garden with six coops each, I would go down one side, tending six coops, then truck across to the other side, and then go down it, tending the other six coops. Now, instead of my needing to go down each outside wall of our garden, the new placement will put them back-to-back in the center of the garden. Thus, I will walk down the center aisle of 12 coops in order to tend them daily: six on my left and six on my right. This will be especially welcome in winter, as I water and feed with snow on the ground. So far, as you can see, five coops are in place that will be on my left as I walk down the row.

So, even though the electric fence isn’t up yet, we sleep better at nights now, and are grateful for the added benefits of easier tending of our little flock! 🐔

 

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New Pens in Our Henhouse

We have some aged hens, which are kept all together with younger ones, and also some juveniles that are not ready yet to go in with adults. We also need to make decisions about which hens to put with which rooster for breeding season in early spring. So, we needed more pens, mostly for short-term occupancy (not over the entire winter, like these).

The Project

Right side before revamping

We inherited an old shed which, in the six years we’ve lived at Storybook Farm has been (by turns) a grain and tractor storage shed (its original purpose), a tack room and one-stall barn for my first horse here, sheep stalls during breeding season when new mamas needed warmth and quiet, a general-purpose chicken coop for a small laying flock, and now it’s to become the nursery/observation poultry barn.

In the right picture, you can see it before we started work this week. The vertical divisions were what the original builders used to store grains and seeds. They had boards that slid down through grooves such that they divided this space into three (or fewer, larger) bins, each about 4′ x 4′. (Both sides of the aisle had these dividers.) When we turned this shed into a general purpose coop for layers, we created the windows (using old storm windows found in a different barn) by removing the exterior and interior siding. Then we had one perch high up, and their food and water there, but otherwise, it was just open floor space.

Two new pens completed

This week, we cleaned out this right side of the overall space entirely, except for the dividing posts. Then, we set to work dividing each bin horizontally, at about 3′ off the ground.

Our goal is to create six pens in this space, each about 16 sq. ft., with a perch, 2 laying boxes, and a modular feeding/water station that traps food debris and uses small feed/water bowls like those we’ve loved in our hoop coops.

In the picture at the right, you can see one bin that is finished into two new pens (bottom and top). Two nesting boxes for each pen are permanently built in (stacked on the right of each space). Feed/water stations are on the left, and are removeable for access to the pen behind. Each pen has a permanent perch built into the rear right corner. The top pens have full windows; bottom ones are cozy and darker, but we installed electric lights.

The Build

Cleaned out

In each bin, we started with a clean out of old litter, down to the rubber floor matts we installed over the old wooden subfloor when sheep were housed here. (We figured the old floor would last longer without coming into contact with urine.)

New shelf w/paint

Next, we framed the new shelf using 2 x 3’s and 1/2″ exterior grade plywood, and screws. Then we painted the new shelf with white exterior paint (see picture, left). The coat of paint is intended to help the plywood last longer. Chicken poo is powerful stuff, and though we intend to continue to use deep litter methods, we know that liquids (of all kinds) rot plywood over time. As an added bonus, when the floor shows through the litter, it makes the space brighter.

After paint, we installed needed items working from rear to front. First came the fixed perch. Then the overhead light fixtures: upper pens get a heat lamp; lower pens (which are warmer, especially at night) get simple 100 watt bulbs with metal shields to protect from fire and concentrate light/heat downward.

Next, we built the two stacked nesting boxes.

Food/Water modular stations

Beside these, we make a space for modular feed/water stations. These have several fine features.

  • They catch wasted feed in a bin that easily slides out so that food can be either disposed of or reused (depending on if it gets wet from the water bowl)
  • They employ a wire shield that prevents chickens from scratching and scattering feed, or sitting in the feed/water bowls. As you see in the picture below right, birds of all ages (these are 4-week-olds) can stick their heads through the wires to easily eat and drink.
  • They allow us to clearly see the birds as they are eating (giving us a great way to observe their heads, combs, breasts, stances, and eating habits, etc., easily)
  • Each night, we quickly and easily empty the bowls and catch bins into a nearby metal trash can and store the bowls in there, too. This gives the rodents less to gnaw on.
  • Young pullets eating

    In winter, the water in these small bowls freezes in a few hours, but they are also easy to dump (iced over water just pops out of the heavy rubber bowls) and refill from a nearby heated bucket cistern. We water three times a day in winters; twice in summers, because with only 2-3 birds on each of these bowls, water doesn’t go very fast in summers.

  • Finally, the whole wood-and-wire structure slides out so that we can clean the pen, access a dead bird (God forbid, but it does happen) or change it for a different kind of feeding/watering set-up (like for really young birds who need feeding right in the shavings). In this last case, we have a simple wood framed wire barrier that we put up in the space vacated by the feeding station pictured here.
Finished bin

As for costs, we used up a lot of old 1 x 1 and 1/2″ plywood that we had hanging around in building the nest boxes. We did buy the 2 x 3’s and the 1/2″ plywood horizontal dividers and the poultry netting new. We had some of the hardware cloth, and the feeding station frames are made mostly from old fencing. All it all, it’s been a pretty cheap way to have six new pens for mult-purposes.

Multi-Purpose Pens

So, how are we planning to use these pens? So glad you asked!

First, as winter comes on, we have been wondering which of our older hens are still laying. Ours is a mixed flock. We have collected (and hatched) hens from different breeds over three years as we were figuring out what we really wanted to stick with, so they all lay differing sizes and colors of eggs. (I love having a rainbow egg basket!) For the purpose of tracking laying frequency, the new pens will house 2-3 hens for a week or two. We can easily collect their eggs, and keep track each hen’s current production. As an added bonus, we can worm them easily. This kind of tracking will become more and more important at we get serious about breeding show birds.

Two 4-week Light Sussex pullets enjoy the sunshine

Second, we grow birds out in all seasons, and with fall coming on hard, we don’t have enough pens to keep our young juvies in. We like for them to get Vitamin D as soon as possible, and we like to be able to see how they’re developing and if they have any obvious deformities, beginning at about 4 weeks old. The top three new pens are great for this.

Third, we need to establish breeding matings each year. For this, we need to have the ability to closely observe pullets and cockerels for both faults and strengths. The top three pens are ideal for this: there is lots of light, they are

Finally, if we have sick birds that need to be isolated and treated easily, these pens are great for that.

 

 

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First Steps when Raising Chickens with Kids

So, you’ve been convinced (by me?) that your child will start a small backyard flock of chickens. What a great decision!

Chickens are live animals! There are many things to consider before you bring home your first fluffy chicks! Part 1 of this 2-part series centers on steps to take before you get your child all enthused about chicken keeping.

1. Check ordinances and HOA rules.

  • Make sure that you are allowed by the powers that be to keep chickens on your property. If not, consider storming city hall with a petition. 🤔 This battle has been won in recent years in countless municipalities across America.
  • A second important question to ask is whether or not you can keep a rooster. Many ordinances allow a certain number of hens to be kept for eggs, but not roosters (because of their crowing).

2. Join an online community.

I can recommend Backyard Chickens as a warm, supportive, active, welcoming group, but there are others as well.

From their forums you will get immediate, experienced help from people who have no dog in the fight: they are not salespeople. They are chicken lovers just like you. But make no mistake: these are folks who are knowledgeable and serious about chicken keeping! You can learn about coops, diseases, feeds, breeds, hatching — in short, this is your go-to support as you learn to raise chickens with your child. Your child can/should even have his/her own account on this forum!

3. Peruse chicken breeds while considering your goals

There are hundreds to choose from, and the newcomer can be easily overwhelmed, so here are some questions to help you narrow the search before you involve your child (who probably should have the ultimate choice among those you suggest to him or her) 😉 :

  • How much space can you devote to chickens?
    • Many breeds come in bantam (miniature) sizes and/or large fowl (sizes that you think of when you think of most chickens you’ve seen). Bantams can be kept kindly in about half the space of large fowl.
    • General guidelines suggest that each large fowl chicken needs 4 square feet (so 2′ x 2′) of floor space inside your coop, and 10 square feet of run space outside the coop (which can include space under the coop if it’s elevated).
    • Large fowl need 1 foot/chicken of roosting space, and a 1 foot cubed nesting box (provide 1 box for every 2 hens). Nesting boxes can be very simple: you can do a Google search and see them made out of everything from dish pans to crates to wood to metal to 5-gallon buckets. There’s no lack of creativity among chicken keepers–that’s what keeps it fun!
  • Our colorful eggs

    What are your goals for eggs?

    • Large fowl birds are the better choice for large or jumbo eggs, and there are breeds that lay up to 280-350 eggs per year. Eggs from these hens can be green, blue, brown, tan, dark brown, and white.
    • Bantam hens are also used as laying hens, with some breeds laying up to 150 eggs per year. However, Bantam eggs are only about one-half to one-third the size of a regular hen egg.
    • In general, some breeds are reputed to “go broody” easily. This means that they will lay a clutch of eggs and sit on them until some hatch–three weeks, minimum. Then, they will care for these young for months. They will not lay during this period. So, in terms of egg production, broody hens are not a plus. (However, read more about broodies below before deciding on this factor!)
    • There are champion egg layers among the breeds (topped by the white Leghorns). These birds tend to be small and streamlined. There are also the “dual purpose” breeds (so called because they both lay a decent number of eggs yearly and have enough size that they are good for meat as well). The latter are also often termed “heritage breeds.” The story is too long to tell here, but suffice it to say that today’s commercial breeders raise hybrid birds in conditions similar to veal calves. (You won’t want your child to even know about conditions in such operations.) Many backyard chicken keepers choose to breeds that are beautiful, docile, and have a long heritage among poultry keepers because they were prized for their meat and eggs in bygone days on smaller, family farms. (These are the breeds that we have chosen to raise, and sell as day-old peeps and hatching eggs.)
  • Do your goals include raising chickens for meat?
    • With the growing movement towards organic foods, many backyard chicken keepers raise and process their own meat. If you are not so much oriented towards having your child raise chickens as pets, but want him to learn the cycle that brings food to our table, you may be interested in a heritage breed that is known as a good table bird and a good layer (called a dual purpose breed).
    • There are great resources in the online communities that can teach you to process your birds if you decide to go this route.
  • Would your child be interested in hatching chickens to raise, or breed, or possibly show or sell?
    • In this case, you want to know which breeds are somewhat unusual, and in higher demand. Simple searches on the Internet will open your eyes to the possible markets for day-old chicks or hatching eggs. (Check out Greenfire Farms as an example of a breeder who started small but has made an entire livelihood out of selling rare and exotic breeds for high dollar amounts.)
    • I highly recommend that your child hatch chicks at some point in your chicken-keeping adventure. It is such a great experience, and again, the online community at Backyard Chickens can hold your hand every step of the way. A small, but decent, incubator can be had, new, for something between $60 and $150. (Check out our favorite online store for incubators, and/or check Craig’s List for used ones near you.) To gain vision, check out this lovely guide.
    • Please note that, if you incubate chickens, you will end up with roosters. What will you do with them? It is quite unreasonable to plan to rehome them as pets. Most people will not feed a bird that gives nothing back, no matter how beloved a pet it has become in your household. Most of the time, you’ll need to plan (and prepare your child) to give it away to a farmer who will eat it, or sell it for meat. That’s just a reality in hatching chickens, and if it bothers you greatly, please read this post. It may help.
  • Finally, what kind of housing will you provide for these birds? You absolutely need to have a coop built, down to the shavings and heat lamp in place, and feed ready, when you bring your first chicks home. So, consider (and price) the housing that your chickens will need (using allowances in chicken math offered above) before you purchase your first hatching eggs or peeps! This is another great project for you and your child to do jointly! (See more on this below.)

Next post in this series: First Steps to Take With Your Child

 

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5 Top Coop Considerations

When I was first learning to keep chickens, I did a lot of research on coops. It was good that I did, because there are a surprising number of things to know that are not obvious to the beginner. There are a zillion plans and examples of chicken coops out there: the creativity of backyard chicken keepers is just as robust as it is in most hobbies! For the newbie, however, this variety = confusion, and often leads to regrets as the emphasis on certain features can be misplaced. That’s why I wrote this article!

1. Farmer First: What You Need

Feeding should be easy!

Whatever the design, it needs to be farmer friendly. Don’t build or buy coops that are hard to access for the following frequent activities:

  • Feeding
  • Watering
  • Accessing the floor of the coop for cleaning, or getting at sick/dead birds
  • Gathering eggs
  • Protection for your feed: a place to conveniently store feed in galvanized trash cans, or the like
  • Storage for chicken gear in off seasons

When looking at a coop plan or design, ask yourself how much effort it will take to service the birds and the coop floor. This is key to your longevity in (and enjoyment of) backyard chicken keeping.

  • So, if you’re going to have to crawl into the coop’s run, don’t use the plan.
  • If you can’t access inside the coop floor to clean it easily, don’t use it.
  • If feed and water are set outside (open to the elements) you’ll be wasting a lot of feed (it will go to rodents, to wild birds and animals like squirrels, and be ruined rain/snow).
  • If you have to stoop, or bend, or twist in order to feed and/or water, don’t use the plan.

2. What Chickens Need

Convert a shed by adding windows

In order of importance:

  • Fresh water (preferably cool in the summer, and definitely not frozen in winter)
  • Appropriate feed (the type changes three times over the life of a chicken: starter, grower, layer feeds)
  • Enough floor space inside the coop for the number of chickens you keep
  • A roomy place to run safely outside the coop (can include free ranging): a run
  • Bugs, grasses, seeds (and other natural foods) in addition to commercial feeds. For some, this means using chicken tractors that can be moved easily. For others, free ranging is the answer.
  • They need to be kept safe, especially at night: their coop/run need to be secure from predators.
  • Their preference for night time is to roost (ideally on wide boards, like 2 x 4’s, turned sideways) in a draft-free zone (especially important in winter) at least 15″ and no higher than 3′ above the floor.
  • Hens will lay on the ground, but if you care about harvesting eggs, provide one nesting box per every two hens.
  • A clean environment. This point takes in the absence of parasites, the management of the chickens’ bedding, and the condition of their nesting boxes.
  • It also refers to the fact that the coop must be well ventilated, offering fresh air that is free of amonia buildup. This means that a coop will be far more open to outside air than most beginners think, especially in winter months. Think about vents to outside air being both up high and down low, but not in the middle of the coop.
  • Adequate bedding: we use and vastly prefer the deep litter method.

3. What Adult Chickens Do Not Need

  • Blankets, sweaters, or tightly closed-up, or heated, coops. We get cold in winter, but chickens have feathers. If they have broad perches, they tuck their feet up under themselves in extreme cold. While some breeds have large combs and wattles that can be frost bitten, almost all of them are way more cold hardy than beginners dream.
  • Frozen or dirty water.
  • Drafts: ventelation is one thing; drafts are another. Learn the difference!
  • Aesthetically pleasing coops: those are for your enjoyment, not theirs. They don’t care how cute their coop is, and you can spend many more dollars than you need to on cute coops. Just sayin’. 😏
  • Over crowded (allow minimally 4 sq. ft./large fowl chicken inside and 10 sq. ft. of run) and/or dirty coops that reek of ammonia (which will sear their lungs and shorten their lives). This is where ventilation comes in again! Can’t really stress this one enough.
  • A place where they can be pounced on by dogs, hawks, or other predators by day. Most people in neighborhood settings need to cover their runs with wire and use sturdy wire to construct them.

4. Nice Frills and Extras

  • A light inside the coop on a timer in winters — if you want to try to boost egg laying rates. It doesn’t always work, though.
  • Heated bucket waterers with nipples: also nice for a farmer in winter. Be sure to check regularly to ensure that it’s working properly.
  • Automatic watering systems in summer: however, be careful that the ease of this amenity doesn’t lull you into a false sense of security. You need to check that it’s working daily. Fresh, clean water is the single most important element of your chicken’s diet.
  • Automatic pop door: these are expensive and, again, need to be checked to make sure that they don’t shut too early and leave chickens outside.
  • A cute coop that makes your neighbors smile. While the chickens don’t care, the neighbors might. Making your coop pleasing to look at (using a coat of paint even on pallet coops can do wonders) can go a long way to buying good will for your flock. The reverse is also true.

5. Building Your Own vs. Buying

  • In our experience, diy coops are always cheaper than purchased ones. A lot cheaper!
  • You don’t need mad carpenter skills to get the job done. Again: simpler is better, and farmer friendly is the key!
  • Check into hoop coop designs: these are by far the most weekend warrior friendly coops to build, and are usually the most economical as well. (We offer plans for a small one that meets all of the criteria above, and you can find examples of larger ones on our Pinterest boards — and more — by searching for Storybook Farm Poultry.)
Our hoop coops

If you have six or fewer birds to house, you might want to consider building a design that we’ve come to love. We practice clan breeding with five carefully selected hens and one rooster per coop. They’re pictured at the right. They take us about two good days to build (using average skills) and cost around $80 if you have to buy all the materials new. They are the easiest possible coops to service, work well in hot and cold weather, are extremely clean and well ventilated for birds (none needed for humans) and have the elegance of simplicity. We think they’re pretty cute, too! You can read details about this design here. We sell highly detailed plans for constructing them at our store, here!