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Bragging Rights and Changes Coming

Selling a Prize Winner to a Deserving Junior

This past spring, a woman named Pirjo contacted me. Her daughter was in her last year in the junior division and wanted to purchase some chickens for show purposes. She wanted Ameraucanas, which I did sell to her, but she also bought my big, beautiful Light Sussex cock, whom we called “Buddy-son,” since he was the son of an older cock we had called “Buddy.”

She wrote me recently to say that her daughter won the Grand Champion award of the junior division in her show with Buddy-son! Pirjo wrote, “Best in show, judge said it wasn’t even a close contest! He was also the most admired and photographed bird in the barn. He really did great. And I must say, he is happy to be back home! Thanks for the great birds. They all did well.”

For me, her daughter’s happy face made saying goodbye to this beautiful cock worth it. But why did I sell him? Buddy and Buddy-son are gorgeous: big, robust, and fertile. There’s just one little issue with them: they are “split to Coronation.” What does that mean?

Light Sussex and Coronation Sussex

The Coronation Sussex (pictured on the right above) has the same color pattern and egg color as the Light Sussex, but with lavender in place of the Light Sussex’s black. This color pattern was created for the coronation of King Edward VIII of Great Britain in 1936 – an event which never took place because Edward abdicated in order to marry a divorcee before he was officially crowned.

Coronation Sussex are a rare and beautiful variety of the Sussex breed: they are docile, large, and lay very large to jumbo pinkish, brown, or tan eggs (depending on the hen). The Coronation pattern is recessive; to oversimplify, like blue eyes in humans, a bird must carry two recessive Coronation pattern genes to look like a Coronation Sussex. A bird that appears to be a Light Sussex (with black markings on hackles and tail feathers) can mask Coronation genes. The only way to find out if a bird is “split to Coronation” is to breed him with either a bird known to be split, or with a full Coronation bird. In the first instance, 1/4 of the offspring should show the Coro pattern; in the second, half (statistically) will be Light Sussex and half Coro.

To return to my story, Buddy and his son were both drop-dead gorgeous Light Sussex males, but as we bred this past year, we hatched about 80 Light Sussex eggs from these boys and another cock from a different line that we thought was a pure Light Sussex (with no Coronation genes hiding underneath). About 1/2 of these chicks feathered out to be Coronation Sussex. This means that all their siblings and cousins that appear to be Light Sussex are either split (they carry the Coronation gene, but we can’t see it) or they are “pure”— they carry two of the genes that yield the dominant Light Sussex pattern.

We were both surprised and a bit downhearted to realize that, aside from pair mating and hatching LOTS of chicks next year, there is no way for us to tell if we are selling pure Light Sussex chicks ongoing. So, when Pirjo came this spring looking for show quality birds, I gladly sold Buddy-son to her! He won best in show, proving that he has what it takes to be a winner! He has a good home, and we have his wonderful genes in our Coronation lines moving forwards.

What this means for us going forwards…

As we look to hatching in 2020, we plan to move all of this year’s Light Sussex birds out and concentrate on our Coronation Sussex and our Marans (wheaten, blue wheaten, and black copper varieties). We will also not be continuing with Ameraucanas in 2020. We are, in general, downsizing our chicken operation because of our new involvement with our Mini Nubian goats.

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Hatching Season 2019

Got my Leahy 415 redwood incubator up and running this winter, and a week ago we set our first hatch! This one is really a trial balloon since it’s a new incubator and the girls aren’t laying strongly currently. The weather has been brutal, and the nights are still long, so I don’t blame them! So, I’ve had my first hatch in for the week, and just added my second tray last night.

This Leahy is a manual turn incubator, so I have to turn the eggs three times a day, which is easy for me since I’m home and always check my incubators a couple of times a day and right before bed to make sure that temps and humidity are within parameters. However, the turning system of yore involved egg positioners that were for standard sized eggs back in the 1950s, and with us hatching a variety of heritage breeds, they didn’t work.

While I don’t mind manual turning, moving each egg by hand three times daily gets old fast, so I looked around and found a great inspirational video below:

The video on the left shows the version I came up with (if you can see the video preview, just click the triangle and it’ll come up).

We used PVC pipe and fiberglass rods that are made to hold up electric field fencing. It took us awhile to make the prototype (a few hours) because of gathering tools and sizing the spaces between the rods for our specific eggs, but it eventually worked! Last night, we whipped up a second one in under an hour in order to set Hatch #2.

Each day — morning, midday, and before I go up for bed — I pull or push each rack, check the hygrometer, fill the water pan if it’s needed, and close the box. Takes seconds/turn!

Tonight I’m candling Hatch #1! It will be interesting to see how fertility and air sacs are coming along.


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Easter Eggers and Olive Eggers

Many people raise chickens to enjoy healthy eggs. I know that’s what got us started. And even more fun is to have a colorful egg basket—without dying!

Many first-time chicken keepers are unaware that different breeds of chickens lay different colored eggs. Without any dyeing, you can have a colorful Easter basket year round! Our grandchildren love to identify the breeds that their breakfast eggs came from by the colors.

At Storybook Farm, we work hard on mating our heritage breed cocks and hens to produce birds better than they are, following the APA Standard of Perfection (SOP). But, there’s a time to get less serious and just have fun! We happen to have heritage breeds that lay bluish eggs, dark chocolate eggs, and deep tan eggs. From these breeds, one can cross them to get a hen that will lay what are commonly called “Easter eggs” and “olive eggs.” The cross-bred hens are correspondingly called “Easter Eggers” and “Olive Eggers.” The reason that breeding these birds is “not serious” is because Easter Eggers (EEs) and Olive Eggers (OEs) are not recognized as breeds by the APA. But, it sure is fun to have those different colored eggs in your basket each week!

So, what breeds do you combine to get Easter and olive egg colors? For OEs, you need a breed that gives dark brown eggs: Marans and Welsummers are popular choices for this element. And you need a breed that lays a blue, or blue green egg: most often, and Ameraucana. For EEs, you want to start with a tan egg (many breeds lay this kind), and cross it with a blue or blue green egg. The resulting color will be more of a true green than an olive color.

It does not matter if the cock or the hen are of the two breeds you are mixing. You can put an Ameraucana cock over a Marans hen, or vice versa. The resulting hens from these interbreeding can be quite lovely. They almost always have cute muffs around their faces (from their Ameraucana genes) and their feather colors can be all over the place. And, you can develop egg colors still further by breeding successive generations of mixed breeds. The chart at the left gives you ideas of how they can develop, as does the photo below.

Here at Storybook Farm, we have Black Copper Marans (who lay dark brown eggs), Ameraucanas (who lay the blue eggs), and Light Sussex, who lay differing tan colored eggs. (See a sample of our eggs in the photo at the start of this article.)

If you are interested in purchasing either hatching eggs or chicks, we can accommodate you with a special order. Please see our Shop for details on orders of this kind.

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Wheaten Marans

We have enjoyed breeding Black Copper Marans for years. We love their large, dark, almost chocolate colored eggs. We love their docile temperaments. But, we’ve been having trouble raising show-worthy cockerels. These are not supposed to have white underfluff, but ours somehow always do! So, this year, we decided we’d take a break from Black Coppers and try to raise Wheaten Marans. They have the same dark eggs and delightful temperaments, but white underfluff is no problem for them! I’ve been looking around for a source for show quality Wheaten Marans, and found a good one in Marans Unlimited, in Tx. That’s a long drive for me from WV, but luckily Bev and Sandy (the sister team who breeds these award-winning Wheaten Marans) agreed to bring some hatching eggs to a chicken show that we were both attending.

Did you know that they have chicken shows? They sure do, all over the country. Chicken fanciers bathe and condition their chickens for the shows, and when they get to the show, they spray and wipe their feathers with a silk scarf, and moisten their feet and combs with Vaseline. It’s pretty amazing to wander through a huge room full of varied and beautiful fowl of various sizes, shapes, and colors. (There’s a great documentary about the process of breeding and showing chickens entitled “Chicken People.” Find it and watch it if I’ve peaked your interest! It’s fascinating.)

Scott and I at the Dixie Classic in Knoxville, TN

This year, I went with my husband to the Dixie Classic, which is a major chicken show given annually each first weekend of December. The first of December happens to be our wedding anniversary: this year, number 39! I had been more sure than ever that I’d been blessed with the husband of my dreams when Scott agreed to take me to the Dixie Classic for our anniversary last year. We had a great time, and so decided to return this year. Not only did Scott take me to Knoxville for the weekend, but he even wore a matching chicken shirt to the show. What a guy!

We were to meet Bev and Sandy at Knoxville and get the precious Wheaten Marans eggs that they had promised to bring. We did indeed meet them there, and get the eggs, but God had a beautiful gift waiting for me at Knoxville. I also came home with a beautiful pair of young adult Wheaten Marans! We called the pullet “Anni” and the cockerel “Vern.” (Annivernsary, get it? 😉)

It all started when I saw Annie. She struck me as SO beautiful: balanced, with a wide tail spread (something that I’ve been working hard at in my lines) and clean, lovely plumage. She was also a Blue Wheaten, which is among my favorite color patterns. I found out who had brought her and said to her, “I want your pullet!!” Then, I quickly amended according to my original intent, “I mean, I want eggs from your pullet this spring!” She smiled sweetly and said, “I’ll let you have her!”

I was dumbfounded! After a few minutes more conversation, when she found I had no cockerel of age to breed to her, she decided to let me have the male that she had brought to sell, too. As you see in the picture above, they are a lovely pair. 

Annie and Me

And as you can see in the picture to the right, I am one happy gal to have been so blessed on my anniversary! Bev and Sandy were not sure the the fertility of the eggs they brought, since it’s the dead of winter and their birds aren’t laying well, so they gave me the eggs and they are now in the incubator. If all goes well, we’ll have Wheaten and Black Copper chicks hatching on Christmas Day. I’m grateful to be in the Marans Chicken Club of the USA, where I’ve found mentors and friends who are helping me to succeed with breeding quality chickens!

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Ameraucanas at Storybook Farm!

All this year, I’ve been growing out my new Ameraucana breeding stock, and they have turned out so nice! I am beyond thrilled!

Splash Pullet

In case you’re unfamiliar, the Ameraucana is a relatively new breed of chicken, having only been accepted by the American Poultry Association in 1984. They have quickly gained popularity, however, and are bred in a number of color varieties. We breed blacks, blues (which are both APA approved) and also splash. This last variety is a fun change from the more run-of-the-mill color schemes among chickens (see a picture of one of our splash pullets, right). Our original stock came from the show-stopper lines of Paul and Angela Smith in Texas.

Here at Storybook Farm, we raise four breeds of Large Fowl. By far, our favorites for personality, egg color, and overall cuteness are the Ameraucanas! They are not large birds as compared to our Light Sussex and Marans, but they are quick, bright, and funny. I love their feathery muffs that half hide their faces, while their expressive eyes peek out at you and twinkle merrily. Ours are curious, but shy. I have known people to make real pets of them, however, with a little effort–and a fair number of treats!

Three Beautiful Boys: Black, Splash, Blue

Ameraucanas are layers of large, blue eggs–the color of robin’s eggs! Their feather colors are beautiful: the blacks have a deep green sheen. The blues have delicate lacing on their feathers. The splash are a funky mixture of black and white. If it’s a fun factor you’re after, you’ve come to the right place with Ameraucanas!

We managed to raise three beautiful boys this year. Our black cock, especially, is large and lovely, but the other two are great as well. Because we have one of each, we can mix and match with our four blue hens and two splash hens to get all three color combinations. In case you’ve never learned this before, the “blue” gene is actually acting to dilute black coloration in feathers are achieved by breeding differing colors together. Chicks inherit one of a pair of genes from each parent. The combinations that result give the following colors in chickens:

  • When there is no blue gene present in the pair, any black markings will be normally colored (i.e. they will appear black)
  • When there is one blue gene present in the pair, any feathers that would have been black on the bird will be diluted to blue (which can appear as anything from a slate gray to a darker, colonial blue color).
  • When there are two blue genes present in the pair, any black will be diluted to (blue splashed) white. This variety is called “splash.”

We are so looking forward to being able to offer hatching eggs and day-old chicks from these parents in the coming 2019 hatching season! First, we have to brave the cold, but we are praying that they’ll all come through just fine, and we’ll have lots of beautiful babies to share come spring! If you’d like to reserve chicks for 2019, please email us today.

 

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Trap Nests: the Build

I have decided to use a time-tested method of gathering information about my laying hens. It’s called trap nesting. Using one of various methods, you trap your hens as they enter their nest boxes individually to lay, and then manually release them afterwards. Thus, you can identify without a doubt which hen laid which egg, and keep highly accurate records. It is a bit labor intensive, because traps must be checked every couple of hours since hens get quite thirsty after laying and are eager to exit the nest.

There are a myriad of reasons for trap nesting practices. Here are a handful of them:

  1. Find out how consistently (or if?) your hens are laying.
  2. Identify your best layers so that you breed them, and thus over time, increase overall egg production in your flock.
  3. Link eggs with specific hens when seeking to breed for egg color enhancements in the flock (very handy when breeding Marans for those darker eggs, for instance).
  4. Identify eggs with specific hens when doing flock mating. Thus, you can house more than one hen with a single cock, yet know exactly which specific paring produces exactly which eggs. Then, you can label and incubate and tag chicks and know with certainty what your blood lines are.
  5. Find out who your egg eater is (it might be a rat!).

There are more, and I am undertaking trap nesting for all these reasons. This is the first post on this topic, and I anticipate sharing more as I go down this road. This post is about my build.

Chez Poulez converted

I have an old building that came with my farm when we bought it, seven years ago now. It was a tractor run below and a grain storage building above. The whole thing is about 24’ x 18’; the lower half (12’ x 18’) has long been converted into a coop for my layer flock. This part of the original building had been outfitted with a 3’ x 18’ corn-crib extension, which was partitioned off from the main space, so we didn’t use until this year. The extension has a central door in the 18’ lone wall; thus, the crib has a left side and a right side. Last winter, we put a pop door into the left side and created some sheltered roosts.

Before demolition

This summer, I’ve broken into the right side to create improved nests with (removable) trap door flaps. This is that right side before I began demolition. We had faced it with some 1/2” plywood because the first use we made of this space was for my horse. So, this was her kickboard.

It took some doing to remove this plywood, and under it were ancient (really tough) boards that were held on by rusted, tough old nails. It was definitely good exercise to pry all this wall apart.

Corn crib exposed after demolition.

After I got all of these boards off, I was confronted with verticle studs, which were of varying depths. I had to decide whether to replace these with a new header or leave them as they were. I decided on the latter because, well, I’m no carpenter, and these are chickens. 😬

It’s not easy to see, but the floorboards of the crib section were loose, and some were rotted. I removed, cleaned, and then put them back. In places where they couldn’t be used, I patched them with new boards, and then put down a layer of 1/4” hardware cloth. This was followed by some insulation, and then a tilted floor of plywood. (I tilted it from back to front in the hope that eggs, when laid, would roll forward to where I can more easily retrieve them.

Wire over dividers; 2nd tier floor

I then constructed 12” high dividers that were 24” deep, and 1” x 2” supports for them that are 15” tall in the front. These then support the 2” x 3” beam that runs across the fronts of the boxes, forming the lip for the second tier of nesting boxes. All in all, there are 14 boxes: 7 below and 7 above. (On the roof of the second tier, we now store bales of shavings—and trap rats. 😏

On the lower tier, there is a 4”-6” space above each divider, between nesting boxes. I originally intended this to be only 3” at the most, and was content that no hens would hurt themselves trying to get through them, but as the 2” x 3” cross beam was laid in place, the vertical space increased. We ended up putting 1/4” hardware cloth down the length of the boxes on top of the 12” dividers so that the hens would not seek to exit the boxes on the sides after being trapped.

In the picture above, you can get an idea of the slope of the roll-away nesting boxes. This is both the ceiling of the first tier and the floor of the second tier. You can also see the 1/4” hardware cloth that we inserted to keep hens from exiting through the space.

Finished: 14 nest boxes

Finally, all the nesting boxes were constructed, and it was time to create the trap doors. I used 1/4” luan, embroidery floss, a jigsaw, a staple gun, finishing nails, and Velcro in constructing these. In my next post, I’ll detail how I designed them, and how they operate, but for now, here’s a picture of the first three set into place: boxes # 2, 4, and 6. They are on the lower tier, and are numbered right to left (since we enter the coop on the right side).

Below is a close up shot of #2, set and waiting for a hen to enter.

 

Trap door # 2